Glashütte Original

Baselworld 2012 - the official PuristSPro report: Glashütte Original

 

PanoMatic Lunar, PanoReserve, PanoGraph, Panoinverse XL, Senator Perpetual Calendar, Senator Observer and Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon.

Looking at the novelties names, one could think there is only one novelty in 2012. Take care, there is more to see and even when those are variations or evolutions of well-known watches, they are worth to have a closer look.

All of the novelties have been posted here already. Straight from the Press Kit´s by our dear Art, but hey we are Purists and we ask for more

Let´s start with the evolutions, which are always a bit tricky when it comes to icons of a brand and to touch their design. The Pano line for example is more than well-known and quite a lot watches from that line can be found in watch collectors collections. So, what´s new?

To make it easier for all of us and as a first impression, we should have a look on this comparison:

(PanoMatic Lunar in steel; new versus old)

Refinement Made in Glashütte: The new one´s are slightly bigger, the bezel is thinner, the dial is simpler, the type face was slightly changed, the hands are different, the crown is different, the lugs are … . What left? The fine movements, for sure

Novelties of the Pano family :

 

PanoMatic Lunar

There are three new versions available, two in steel and one in red gold. The latter featuring a warm silver dial. Steel - two versions present these spectacular new visuals in a polished and satin-brushed stainless steel case. One feature a warm silver dial with silver hour indexes beneath blued steel hour, minute and seconds hands, complemented by the characteristic Panorama Date and by the moon phase display showing a silver moon and stars against a dark blue night sky. The second stainless steel edition presents the dial visuals in a striking grey setting – a ruthenium dial with applied silver (rhodium) indexes and white gold hour, minute and subsidiary second’s hands.

All of them appealing, but look at the details:

The ruthenium dial brings out the new dial very well and the silver moon & stars are just so nice.

To be honest, we can´t show you our pictures of that beauties. Because we didn´t see it during our presentation.
For the final judgment, we all have to see it in the metal.

Details :

 

PanoReserve

 

For some the predecessor was the entrance in to the world of GO and for others it was the so called “exit watch”. In any case, it was and still is an important watch in the GO collection. How does the new one look like? The guilloche at the power reserve is gone and the same complication looks bigger now. The hour and minutes hands have luminous. The second’s indication shows numbers for each 10 seconds and looks very elegant. Elegant and refined could be the summary of the new version.

The new warm silver dial and the red gold case look very elegant, aren´t they?

But let´s have a look to all of them.

Three different (watch) versions are available, two in steel and on in red gold:

 

No matter which kind of lifestyle you have or in which kind of climatic zone you live, GO is known for offering solutions in any case – different kind of leather straps or steel bracelet, no problem.

All the technical details are shown in the picture above. One of the best features is still available: the fine manual winding movement.

Which version is the best? Well this is (just) a question of style and taste. We didn´t see the versions in steel, but the one in red gold was more than charming …

PS: the new crown is a pleasure to wind

 

PanoGraph

 

The PanoGraph is the little brother of the outstanding PanoRetroGraph and only lacks the “reverse gear”. The caliber 61 is based on the caliber 60, but far more than only a budget solution. It is a classical manual winding chronograph movement at its best, which shows nice details like an open column wheel and much more.

 

Something is wrong? No, the watch shown is from our fellow Purist stere and we thought it could be nice to compare it with the new one:

The unique sectorial indication of the 30-minutes counter shows now lines instead of dots.

The new one is less “special” and more classic, but still shows the unique chronograph display.

One more winner in the team? Only time can tell, but for sure we will see further versions in the coming years – we guess.
A steel and platinum version in the tradition of GO would be nice

 

PanoInverse XL

 

Only introduced in 2008 and already an evolution. It´s predecessor was much discussed in our GO forum and found lots of friends in the market. One BIG friend is famous for his pictures and therefore we have chosen one of his for comparison reasons.

New

“Old”, from our dear Purist Jocke.

Where is the difference? Who knows?

Two different versions of the new one: Steel and RG

Two new models of the PanoInverse XL take advantage of an enhanced case and expansive dial to present the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment in a distinctly modern and contemporary manner.

 

Novelties of the Senator family :

Senator Perpetual Calendar

This one was a modern classics already when it was introduced in 1997 and voted the “Uhr des Jahres” (Watch of the Year) in Germany, in 2000 and still is the flagship of the Senator line. The uniquely balanced, very legible and elegant perpetual calendar mechanism is a defining complication for the manufacture. It has proven its suitability in a vast range of watches, from classic round watches to cushion shaped ones. It does not even look out of place in technical timepieces such a pilot´s watches. Versions in the Senator line, so far there have been several in different metals or in ceramic, with different hands, with different dials, with different caliber families (39 and 100) and in different sizes – 39.3mm and 42mm.

If one looks for such a complication for not too much money but still in a characteristic interpretation; here is your watch: German construction, four days power reserve, double date, and windows instead of sub dials.

At the 2011 Baselworld GO presented a new design, featuring the new elaborate and distinctive Senator case (which debuted with the revived Senator line in 2005 (?!)) in 42mm for this watch, then with a red gold case and a matte black dial. This year, we see a handful of additional versions, red gold with silver as well as stainless steel with silver or black dial.

The latest versions shown here:

Two versions in steel and with three different “strap” solutions – just perfect for each occasion.

For those who ask for a precious metal, together with a perpetual calendar.

Here we go:

You ask for real pictures? No problem, this time

We were particularly taken by the black version. It makes full use of the calendar´s restrained features and transforms them into a complicated but stealth watch.

The white/steel on black theme abounds with subtle but at times stark contrasts. It also hides the rim between the 2 date disks well:

If that watch was a winner in 2000, we assume it should be one now, as well.

The heart of the Senator Perpetual Calendar (today), easily visible through a sapphire glass mounted in the case back, is the Glashütte Original caliber 100-02, providing a power reserve of more than 55 hours.

It features an interesting and practical reset mechanism that allows easy synchronization of the second hand with a given standard:

“Unlike other reset mechanism, the second hand is connected neither to the winding stem nor the crown. As a result, when the crown is pulled out, the balance remains in oscillation and the movement continues to run, significantly reducing material stress.” (Press Kit)

 

One picture not to forget …

… the most import one – the wrist shot.

It´s a fascinating watch to wear which oscillated between complexity and easiness. Reminds you on the woman you admire?

 

Senator Observer

 

GO always has been a technical company manufacturing tool watches including ultra-precision chronometers for aeronautical or marine purposes. Observation watches belong to this category, and GO always had several offerings worth consideration.

Those watches often celebrated one of Glashütte’s famous watchmakers, Julius Assmann, who was well known for his precision timekeepers. Thus it was only logical that last year the manufacture presented the Senator Observer 1911 – Julius Assmann, a white gold limited edition watch that takes its inspiration from observation watches manufactured in Mr Assmann’s atelier.

This year we see the ‘democratisation’ of this watch, not only in terms of production number, but also in terms of accessibility – two variants in stainless steel called for attention. They are available with either a black Louisiana alligator leather strap or a “vintage” brown calfskin strap.

Both feature GO’s lacquered grained dial in either silver or grey, respectively, with a different, more ‘technical’ font. Be it silver…

… or grey…

… both watches represent successful evolution to the ancestral watch. The dials of both are built up slowly from three separate layers of lacquer and present a finely textured, grained surface.

The case is a 44mm Senator case…

… that wears well on the wrist:

The movement of course is a Cal. 100 derivative, the Cal. 100-14 with panorama date and power reserve.

More technical details here:

 

Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon

For sure this was a major step for GO in to the world of high complications, but we haven´t seen it at our Basel presentation. As it is not comparable with anything we saw before, we decided not to write about that novelty. For further info, please look at GO´s website. We hope that is ok for you, this time.

 

Conclusion

 

This year was more evolution than revolution, and we liked the fact that GO spent most of its efforts on further developing and fine-tuning existing models and making some of them more accessible to a broader audience. This is important to the brand as value-for-money is one of its main assets.

Furthermore, not being bombarded with over-the-top complications that literally blow your mind is a welcome departure from the ‘usual’ Basel experience, and allows a more intense appreciation of the subtleties which often go unnoticed. And here we had quite some harvest!

 

Magnus

I have to admit that I never really warmed to the Pano-series of GO, they were just too close to what was offered a bit down that same Glashütte street ;-). Funny to see that this year both brands presented evolutions of their respective ‘iconic’ model - “honni soit qui mal y pense…”!

But the Senator line strokes a chord with me quite often. The restrained presentation of complications, the very wearable (in terms of size but also design) case and then – oh those dials!

And here we are: I could easily select the Senator Perpetual Calendar or the Observer as my favourites. But I decided against it and declare herewith: My winners of the 2012 GO offerings are the dials!

Ever since GO presented the original Senator Chronometer in 2009 I was impressed: tack-sharp printings with a visible 3D effect on frosted silver or grey dial, amazing! It has a very significant tactile quality that is hard to describe. Kudos to the company for not only keeping this feature, but also for developing it further.

 

Oliver

Two of my favorites from the Pano line, those with a manual wound movement have been touched this year – the PanoGraph and the PanoReserve. The first impression was very pleasing, but for a final judgment I need more time with the watches in my hand.

The Senator Perpetual Calendar in steel with black dial is very addictive and I appreciate it a lot that GO was successful to refine that watch, once more.

Refinement – seemed to be THE theme for GO in Basel 2012 and nothing is wrong with that. Congrats!

 

Magnus & Oliver

This message has been edited by Dr No on 2012-04-12 17:56:52

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